Evergreen shrubs, as for example rhododendron, berberis, and garrya, do not need regular or systematic pruning. Occasionally they are forced out of shape by wind or broken by snow, become thin or grown out, then the gardener must use secateurs and saw to restore equilibrium.

The aim should be to preserve the characteristic outline of the plant and this means doing only sufficient cutting to maintain it in good health, combined with maximum production of colour be it flower, berry, leaf or stem. Pruning is most important in the early years of a plant’s life when a little discreet cutting is required to create a good overall shape.

Occasionally a border is neglected due to lack of interest or ability to cope on the part of the previous owner, and drastic renovations are necessary. Go over the border naming as many of the inhabitants as you can.

Experience has taught me that it is better to remove the short-lived shrubs like cytisus, cistus and roses completely. After a few years of neglect these are just clutter and will hamper the work of rehabilitation.

Depth of sowing depends very much on the type of seed. A good general rule is to cover them with soil to twice their own depth, but always wait until the soil is in a fine friable condition.

Leave the seedlings undisturbed till they are several inches high and then transplant them at the normal planting season for the species, giving them ample room for further development. They can then be grown on for at least another year by which time they should be big enough to go out into their permanent quarters.

Any obviously dead or very old wood is cut clean out at the base. Then surplus or crossing branches are trimmed out and the bush generally tidied up. Tree pruning is a dangerous undertaking requiring specialist knowledge.

I always sow fine seed, like that of the rhododendrons, erica and kalmia, under glass where a careful watch can be kept on progress. A well-drained, aerated compost together with careful watering and controlled temperatures make success almost assured. Cleanliness of compost, of containers, of watering, and hygiene in general is an obvious requirement.

To those are already familiar with sunroom construction, they have probably heard about Champion sunroom. This is known as one of the founding members of the National Sunroom Association and boasts of producing only the top quality materials when it comes to sunroom construction. Aside from this, Champion has always put a big grin on their customers’ faces because of the excellent service they offer. Their many years of service in the market have given them enough experience to know the needs of their customers.

To perfectly deliver service to its long list of patrons, Champion has factory showrooms located in Cincinnati and Denver. However, their products reached other parts of the country. This can be only made possible through the reputation and credibility the company has developed. Patio rooms or porch enclosure is one of the products offered by Champion when it comes to building a sunroom. In the early days, Champion only offers patio rooms that are meant to be enjoyed during the three seasons and are not made for year round enjoyment. But as the years progress, the company can now provide homeowners with All Season Vinyl Room Patio. In other words, this allows them to take advantage of enjoying an outdoor atmosphere without compromising their comfort and security. Aside from this, other products offered by this reputable company includes awnings, sunroom furniture and porch enclosures. These products are not only made from high quality materials but they will surely help you achieve the level of enjoyment you truly desire in a sunroom.

A great deal of money is spent each year on fertilisers, some of which I am sure would be better invested in buying compost bins. I use a balanced feed as a complement to the organic mulch, not as a substitute for it.

An excess of nitrogen can be balanced by applying extra potash. Autumn-colouring shrubs like photinia and acers should get extra potash as this will give the starlets, yellows and purples added lustre.

Bonemeal, hoof and horn, and fish meal, together with mixtures based on seaweed can be used over almost the whole garden without fear of harmful side effects. Usually, as well as the nitrogen, phosphates and potash, they contain a whole series of trace elements which though required by the plants in parts per million rather than ounces per square yard are never the less essential if the plants are to grow well.

There are, of course, the paraquat-based chemical weedkillers which can be used amongst established shrubs if the border is very dirty. Providing these do not come into contact with the leaves they will not harm the cultivated plants. The chemical acts only through the chlorophyll in the leaves so it can be sprayed right up the stems of the shrubs.

For several years I had the greatest difficulty in persuading Kalmia latifolia to grow until, more by accident than anything else, I underplanted it with Mahonia aquifolium. The kalmia grows and flowers above a blanket of dark green leaves.

In spring the mahonia is magnificent with racemes of rich yellow, sweetly scented flowers, followed by black berries and though evergreen some of the leaves turn scarlet. I am not sure if it is the root shade or the protection the underplanting affords, but both the kalmia and the garden are better served by the insertion of the mahonia. The other ground hugging mahonia, M. repens rotundifolia, will thrive in most soils except where drainage is bad. In the winter garden it will soon smother the bare earth. I grow it under Viburnum x bodnantense.

The growth of the Butcher’s Broom, Ruscus aculeatus, is closely packed, and the spine- tipped leaves appear highly polished as if they were varnished. Though extremely shade tolerant it resents a very wet acid soil, and berries sparsely in poor light conditions. Only once, in Northumberland, have I seen the bright red marble fruits really thick on a bush which was sited on the west face of a low wall.

Africanized Honey Bees have become established in Florida. Since their first identification in 2002, Africanized bees have become established in South Florida, West Central Florida and in pockets throughout North Florida. As these bees, also known as “killer bees,” become more common in Florida, the public will need a better understanding of the facts about Africanized honey bees. While they are a bit more dangerous than European bees, a little knowledge and common sense will go a long way toward ensuring everyone’s safety.

African bees are called “killer bees” because they defend their nests and their territory vigorously. They will chase intruders 200 yards or more, the territory they defend is much larger and, when they attack, they do so with 10 to 100 times the numbers that European bees do. The danger occurs when perceived intruders, expecting the milder reaction of European honey bees, are unprepared for the ferocious defense of Africanized bees.

Can you visually tell a killer bee from a European bee? No. The two types are so similar that even bee experts can’t tell the difference. Both have black stripes around their abdomen and fuzzy bodies. The only way to distinguish between them is to do a genetic analysis or do a host of body measurements. Avoiding all bees is the safest way to avoid Africanized bees.

Whatever the conditions, however, no shrub will succeed unless planted in a well-prepared soil. There is no short cut to soil fertility, no chemical magic to change overnight a sterile desert into a Garden of Eden, no matter how hard the manufacturers advertise their individual wares.

Drainage must be a primary concern except when the garden is sited on a sandy soil when the problem will be water retention rather than draining an excess away. Some gardens have a system of tile drainage which will cope adequately with any excess rain, short of a tropical thunderstorm.

At long last the gardener can don heavy boots and take a spade in hand to make a start on preparing the soil to receive the chosen shrubs. Newly planted shrubs will establish rapidly if they are provided with a soil. which has been worked some fifteen inches deep. First take out a trench across one end 15 in. wide, placing the soil to one side for filling up the final trench when the work is completed.

Much of the joy I find in gardening is linked to brief moments of a beauty so all pervading that the recollection of it is sufficient to lift the dreariest days of bitter winter. Another picture. which is still fresh in my memory, is of Rhododendron Sir Charles Lemon.

There are species and varieties so slow growing that they will grow contentedly for a generation with the modest dimensions of a trough garden. At the other extreme the family includes trees mat soar, 100 to 120 ft., majestic in their perfect -Fymmctrical outline. No matter the size of garden - be the landscape formal or designed to Iarmonise with the natural scenery around are conifers of the right shape and foliage colour to fit and enhance the picture.

I would hesitate to suggest planting bamboos in a small garden were it not for the fact that one of the finest specimens I know grows in a small garden where the soil is so well drained even the worms carry water bottles.

What would it take for you to have an excellent sunroom? Careful and meticulous planning is the key. There are actually so many things to do and consider before you achieve the sunroom you long dream of. Of course when building a sunroom, the cost is the very first thing that you can think of. For this, you need to consider the maintenance level of what the sunroom requires. Sunrooms that need less maintenance actually means that you can shell out lesser amount of money and in the long run, the lesser investment you can incur. Another important factor that one should consider is the flexibility that you need and want in the room. As such, you need to have proper lighting that can still be controlled in your room so you won’t suffer any discomfort because of the light’s brightness. Also, a flexible sunroom allows you to open and close the windows when needed. And lastly, it is important that the sunroom is properly secure. Let no intruder get inside your sunroom. To do this, you need to have a glass that is shatter resistant so break ins would be hard and impossible.

A swimming pool is an excellent landscape addition that will enhance and beautify your property and increase its aesthetic appeal. This article will concentrate on the types of swimming pools available and the ones that will really be valuable to the landscape.

Kinds of Pools

There are two types of swimming pools available to choose from; an above ground and an in-ground.

Above-Ground Swimming Pools

Above ground swimming pools are movable and can be installed and removed when necessary. These kinds are less expensive and come in a wide array of sizes and shapes.

These pools are easy to install and can be bought at reasonable rates. When it comes to adding to the look of a yard, they cannot do the job. As a landscaper, you may can try this type of swimming pool in case you are not quite ready to have a more permanent type of structure installed.

In-Ground Swimming Pools

In-ground swimming pools are the real type of pool that will fit nicely into your landscape. In-ground swimming pools are available in three different forms; concrete, vinyl lined and fiberglass.