Posts Tagged ‘bulbs’

Make Your Grounds Safe With Low Voltage Landscape Lights

Sunday, January 31st, 2010

I would not have supposed just however countless superb models there are in low voltage landscape lights.

There is a type to be fitting for everybody’s private taste I feel certain, plus so numerous different price tags that I feel sure everybody might afford to have their garden to be lit up pretty economically.

Not only do these lights allow your own garden seem so special at night, they cause it to be safer for you to move about. You are never liable to stray from the paths and tread on your flower borders etc.

If you have a water element as part of your own backyard plan this should look extremely beautiful at night if it was illuminated from below. Several of these illumination are quite appropriate for this objective and absolutely waterproof.

Not only public grounds can have a lighted pool, so can you.

If you possess some of those secret little nooks and crannies in your garden, someplace you may possess a remarkably special element, one of the highlight models could be terrific. Your backyard sculpture or whatever you possess that you would fancy lit up, could appear charming at nighttime.

Fall Into Lily And Bulb Planting Time

Tuesday, October 13th, 2009

Fall is bulb planting time. Most lily species are planted now. The lily bulb is very sensitive to drying out and should be planted as soon as received. Plant bulbs four to six inches deep according to the species. Most lilies enjoy fertile soils, richly supplied with organic matter.

Since most of them prefer cool soils, the planting of ground cover plants over the lily beds is helpful in satisfying this condition. Good drainage is a must for most lily species. There are many superior varieties of lilies on the market today in a great variety of colors and forms. Many of these are hardy for the West area.

No group of plants gives better spring color than the spring flowering bulbs. Tulips, daffodils and hyacinths provide a mainstay for the border.

Tulips are most widely used because they are the hardiest. For bordering, grape-hyacinths, scillas or squills, chionodoxas, and crocuses are unexcelled. Secure large, well-grown bulbs from a reliable source. Plant the bulbs to a depth equivalent to two to three times the diameter of the bulbs.

Bringing In Vacationing Houseplants

Tuesday, September 22nd, 2009

As a planting season September is second only to April and May; and now that cooler weather has arrived, you will doubtless be raring to go.

Corms of autumn-blooming crocus and colchicums should be planted as soon as they become available. Two or three weeks after they are planted, they may bloom. Winter aconite tubers and snowdrop and narcissus bulbs should also be planted when received, for they deteriorate if they are kept out of

This is the best time to divide peony clumps and Japanese and Siberian irises. The soil is warm now and consequently favorable to root development, so that the plants will become established before the onset of winter.

Biennials also can be transplanted either to a coldframe or to the spot where they are to bloom. Whether they will need the protection of a coldframe depends upon their hardiness in your area.

Although spring planting is usually preferred for broad-leaved evergreens such as mountain-laurel and rhododendron and cone-bearing or narrow-leaved evergreens such as pine, spruce and fir, their new growth has now hardened sufficiently to permit transplanting them without much injury. However, in areas where these evergreens are just barely hardy, it would be wiser to postpone transplanting them until spring.

Lawns Bulbs and Veggies in The Southern Garden

Sunday, May 3rd, 2009

Annuals

February plantings of larkspur, sweet peas, stock, cornflower and poppies will give good results. Throughout most of this region pansy plants can be transplanted during February and will give color until mid-June. As soon as they are established, mulch with two inches of well-rotted compost or feed with a balanced fertilizer and mulch with a material to prevent undue drying out.

Spring Bulbs

These happy harbingers of spring begin popping through the soil and some of the early ones may flower during the latter part of the month. Keep the soil where these are developing clear of debris, especially winter mulches that have not decayed, and apply lightly a fungicide to prevent disease damage.

Light feeding with liquid food and heavy watering will increase the length of stem and quality of bloom.

Lawns

Top-dressings of lawns or any similar garden planning tasks may be started in the lower part of this region and continued throughout the region next month. This top-dressing design is to correct uneven areas and washes that may have occurred during the winter. Mow the grass short in order to work the soil or compost well into the stolons of the grass.

Crinums a Fascinating Group of Summer Bulbs

Monday, April 13th, 2009

Blow Wind Blow and go garden go! Wind always creates problems in the garden but in March in the South the problem becomes acute. All gardeners know of the damage that results from plants whipping back and forth, being bruised or crushed against each other, the cutting action of the fine soil, and the silting action of the blowing dust. All these are bad. enough, but the real damage comes from the drying action of the winds the dehydration of plant tissues.

In this area there has been more, moisture during the last year than for, any previous season. For this reason many gardeners will neglect to supply needed moisture to the top soil, the layer in which feeder roots of plants are present. Many gardeners rely on winter mulches to prevent excessive drying of the top soil, and rightly so! But in at least half of our area even the mulch material is blown away, therefore surface watering becomes absolutely necessary.

The easiest method to water the garden at any time is by a permanent sprinkler system. More and more of these are being installed each year by gardeners.

Plants And There Needs

Wednesday, March 4th, 2009

I am building another lamplight greenhouse, so I can expand my study of roses under artificial lighting. I had some very astounding results from cuttings made during the winter and, believe it or not, several are blooming at this very moment in the garden.

My failures were also ever present, but from each 1 learned a lesson, be it in rooting mediums, temperature, hardening off, or what- ever problems beset the indoor gardener. One thing I do know is that it works if you know how to properly balance the lights and take certain other precautions.

I bought a dormant rose the second week in March, planted it in a pot and set it alongside my propagating box under lights. On April 27 I cut my first rose of the year, and I believe the first one in this area. It caused quite a commotion. When I told people I raised it in a basement they said I was “nuts.” The rose had never seen daylight until it was cut and brought out of the house.